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FAQ

Nov 26, 2015

How to brick a Wood Evaporator?

 

1- Place insulation boards against the inside of every SS arch walls. The insulation board can be cut with a utility
knife or saw. Always use a dust mask when insulating your arch.
2- Start placing firebricks on the bottom, except the rear flat section, then on the walls. Work up and towards the
rear end of the arch. High temperature cement is applied in THIN layers only to stick the firebricks to each
other. You may want to leave on line from top to bottom on each side of the arch to act as an expansion joint.
3- The last layer of bricks at the top of the arch should be cut at an angle to allow heat to transfer to the highest
possible surface of the pans (drawing A). Do not force bricks into location. A too tightly bricked arch could
create problems.
4- Fill the space between the last brick and the arch rail with wool (not too tight). It will prevent the rail from
warping.
5- For drop flue model; during bricking, you may want to set the flue pan on the arch to make sure you have
enough room for the flue pan drain.
6- Allow 24 hours for high temperature cement to set and dry
7- After a minimum of 24 hours, check to see if any area may need refractory cement to fill any cracks or crevices.
8- Fill the back of the arch with insulation wool, sand or zenolite.
 
 
How to clean pans?
 
Inside pan cleaning
 
1) Fill pans with permeate or clean water.  Fill it close to the top.
2) Add a CDL recommended cleaner (pan acid), heat up (almost to boiling point but not quite) and leave
sitting all night.
3) Drain and rinse thoroughly with water.
4) Fill the pan to the top again with clean soft water and bring it to a boil for 15 minutes, to insure that there
is no more cleaner residues left.  Pour some baking soda in the water to neutralise the solution if required.
5) Never use abrasive products or steel brush, steel wool or any product containing chlorine or muriatic acid.  
6) If there is burned syrup on the side of a pan, use commercial cold oven cleaner.  It will dissolve the syrup
without using abrasive products.  To bring back the shine, use a foaming industrial glass cleaning product.
IMPORTANT: if there is any cleaning product left in the pan, it will seriously damage the pan.  It could even
make holes in it.
 
Outside (bottom) pan cleaning
 
Never use abrasive products to clean the bottom of the pans.  Use a brush made for that purpose and brush
back and forth under the pans and in between the flues as required.  It is not recommended to use water or
any other liquid.  Water and suit mixed together becomes an acid that will damage the tank after a while.  You
can pressure wash the bottom of the pans as long as they get dried right after the wash.
 
When to clean you pans
 
Pan cleaning depends on evaporator size and the amount of sugar sand produced by your evaporator.  Front
pans have to be checked every hour to prevent overheating.  If there is too much sugar sand in the bottom of
your pan, you could burn it.  So make sure that you check your flue pan at the end of every day, especially in
the corners at the end of each flue.
Too much sugar sand can even split open flues if they are not cleaned.
 
 
How to use a hydrometer?
 
Fill the hydrometer test cup with syrup until it is approximately 1 to 2 inches from the top and place it on a level surface. Do not fill the hydrometer cup with the hydrometer inside, as the syrup on the stem will add weight and affect the reading. Slowly lower the hydrometer into the syrup until it is floating on its own or resting on the bottom of the hydrometer cup. This is a very fragile instrument. DO NOT drop the hydrometer into the syrup, as this can cause the hydrometer to shatter.
 
Reading the Hydrometer:
 
It is important to take a temperature reading at the same time as the hydrometer reading, because density changes with temperature. Take the hydrometer reading once the hydrometer has stopped bobbing. If you take the reading right from the evaporator draw-off (at 2110 F), if the syrup is even with the top red line, you have the right density. If it’s below the line, the syrup is heavy. Add some sap to the boiling syrup to dilute. If the syrup is above the line, the syrup is light. Continue to boil the syrup. Between readings, clean the hydrometer with hot water or sap. If you take the reading with cold syrup at 600 F, use the bottom red line to measure.
IMPORTANT: In Vermont every syrup hydrometer has to be state inspected to be legal.
 
 
 
How to use a hydrotherm?
 
The clean, dry hydrotherm is gently lowered into the syrup in the cup. The observed density is read from the Brix scale on the hydrotherm's stem at the flotation level, for example (65.8°Brix). The Density Correction is read at the top of the red column on the Density Correction Scale on the reverse side of the stem, for example +0.8 (Figure 4b). The true density reading of this syrup sample being tested is, therefore, 65.8 + 0.8 = 66.6°Brix.
 
Keep the hydrotherm in an upright position to prevent the red column from separating, when not in use.
 
 
 
How to calibrate a thermometer?
 
1‐ Fill a pot at least 6” deep with water
2‐ Bring the water to a boil
3‐ Put the thermometer in the boiling water.  Don’t touch the bottom of the pot with the stem.  The temperature reading will be off.
4‐ Verify the temperature
5‐ If you are not at 2120 F or at 00 F for a maple syrup thermometer, adjust the screw at the back of the thermometer to get the right value.
 
 
 
Learn more at http://en.cdlinc.ca/how-to.aspx
 

 

Source: http://en.cdlinc.ca/how-to.aspx

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